Interview with Sotaro Ogino, Designer of PETROSOLAUM Japanese Handcrafted Footwear

September 3, 2024

"The term “Mingei” was coined in late December 1925, and almost a century has passed since the conceptual seeds of Mingei were sown. We have always been inspired by the aesthetics and spirit of Mingei that beauty was to be found in daily life." - Sotaro Ogino

Who are the designers behind the brand PETROSOLAUM?

Sotaro Ogino: PETROSOLAUM has been making shoes since autumn-winter 2012-2013. Started by myself, Sotaro Ogino when I was 30. My younger brother, Ryo joined PETROSOLAUM in 2015 after graduating from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Our atelier is in Shibuya, Tokyo.

How is Asakusa relevant to traditional boot-making? What makes it a special neighbourhood?

We recognise that Asakusa has developed as a local footwear industry from the leather industry throughout history. Shoe-making has flourished as a local industry, making the region Japan's number one shoe production area. Our studio is based in Tokyo. For us, Asakusa is an essential place for shoe-making, where there are many manufacturing sites and material companies.

How are you inspired by traditional craft in your daily life?

The term “Mingei” was coined in late December 1925, and almost a century has passed since the conceptual seeds of Mingei were sown. We have always been inspired by the aesthetics and spirit of Mingei that beauty was to be found in daily life.

Has Petrosolaum’s designs always been unisex?

Yes. Our design has been unisex. When we first started PETROSOLAUM, we thought the concept of unisex was less widely known than it is today. As times change, the percentage of women's sizes has increased to the present day.

Are you inspired by the seasons and nature when creating your products?

Yes, I am. The seasons and nature are indispensable. Japan has four seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter. Each season brings different colours to see, sounds to hear, smells to breathe, tastes to taste, and sensations to touch. Being able to use all five senses is essential for me when creating something new.

Describe to us how it is like in the factory of Petrosolaum, how many people are working in the shoes and what is there to see?

Sotaro and Ryo run PETROSLAUM. We not only make simple samples but even for mass-produced shoes, we have a system in place where we handle all the materials ourselves, cutting and sewing. We also enlist the cooperation of outsourced companies in Japan, including those in the Asakusa area, to manufacture our products. We don't operate a large factory, but rather we control quality by keeping things in a small area that is monitored by Sotaro's classmates who studied shoemaking together years ago.

Is the concept of wabi-sabi and natural patina relevant to your work?

We believe that we have the spirit of wabi-sabi potentially within us as a Japanese person. However, we are not particularly conscious of it, so we would be very happy if people could sense it from our products.

When did you start collaborating with Jan Jan van Essche and how did the project come together?

PETROSOLAUM has been successfully collaborating with Jan-Jan Van Essche since AW20. We first met Jan Jan and Pietro at an event party for the same client we worked for in Tokyo. And we remember he liked our shoes and invited us to come and talk to him. We have always had respect and gratitude for their gentlemanly and warm attitude ever since that time. So we’ve been collaborating every single season.

How is nature and seasons important to you? How does it influence you when creating your work? What is your favourite season?

I believe that hints for creating things can be found in nature, the seasons, and all the phenomena that occur in life, even when I am just playing with my children. I like all four seasons, but my favourite is spring through to summer when plants sprout.

What are your favourite activities when not creating footwear?

We both like physical activity. And we've been running regularly over the past ten years. We participate in a full marathon once a year and aim to improve our personal best every time.

Can footwear also be considered as sculpture?

Among the items worn to protect the feet, they have a significant impact on the human body, we think it has both a sculptural aspect in appearance and an architectural aspect that is functional.

Do you have any special events, collaborations or projects coming soon?

We collaborate with JAN JAN VAN ESSCHE continuously for the next season. PETROSOLAUM is holding a shoe order event at our client's stores.

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