I hand pick every fabric for the collections and I particularly love fabrics that I sense will become nicer with time. Every fabric will change from using and washing so I aim to find those that will age with grace. Hansen is all about clothes becoming part of your wardrobe for many years, not just a season, so it’s important that the fabrics age well and even get better as time passes. That is the core of sustainable dressing. - Åse Helena Hansen
Who is HANSEN and how many people are behind the company?
We are an independent menswear brand based in Copenhagen. We wholesale to customers across the world and also have two stores in the city and, of course, a web-store. It’s only a small company with a few members of staff and is owned and run by Per Chrois and myself Aase Helena Hansen.
How and when did HANSEN begin? Has the concept and philosophy changed or evolved since then?
Back in 2010 Chrois and I went on a long motorbike trip and on the journey's return somewhere in southern Spain we started talking about what our future would look like. If I remember it correctly, we had decided to start our own denim clothing company by the time we got home. We plotted and planned and eventually landed on not doing denim but a line that was more based on Scandinavian values, traditions and craftsmanship. The brand has evolved since then, yet the core of our concept is still the same today.
When did you start designing garments?
I have a degree in design, and I have been working as a designer since 2000. I worked initially on womenswear and denim but gravitated towards menswear when we started Hansen. Having said that, a lot of our clothes are worn by women too…
Have you always worked with natural fibres, natural hardware and vintage techniques? Is the concept of natural patina and wabi-sabi relevant to HANSEN?
I love great fabrics: for me, they are the starting point of creating garments. I am drawn to specific fabrics depending on many factors but the handle, texture and breathability is very important in menswear and natural fibres tend to be best. Of course, sometimes other man-made fibres appear as they can help with durability too - especially in knitwear - but the quality still has to be high. The same applies to trims - I much prefer real horn and real mother of pearl as it creates a better finishing touch.
I hand pick every fabric for the collections and I particularly love fabrics that I sense will become nicer with time. Every fabric will change from using and washing so I aim to find those that will age with grace. Hansen is all about clothes becoming part of your wardrobe for many years, not just a season, so it’s important that the fabrics age well and even get better as time passes. That is the core of sustainable dressing.
Describe to us what it is like to visit one of the factories of HANSEN, how many people are working behind the scenes?
We work with a handful of factories in Europe. They are all quite small with only 20-50 people working in them. Having a good relationship with them is key. It takes time for a cooperation to work well and for them to know what our garments should look like when it comes to finish details like stitching, bias binding, button holes etc.
We visit the factories as much as we can, and always seek out places that live up to our standards.
How does Scandinavian traditional craft culture influence your work?
It is important in terms both of craftsmanship and aesthetics. Both of us have lived abroad and travelled a bit and with Hansen we wanted to investigate what our own heritage is. Having said that, we are also influenced by other countries and cultures so we think we have a pretty international mindset.
How does nature and seasons influence your work?
Living in Denmark it is impossible NOT to be influenced by the weather! I am definitely very influenced by the seasons both in the nature of the clothes we produce (there is a definite need for warm coats in winter and lightweight shirts in summer here) but also in the colours. The summers are bright and winters very dark and that is reflected in the palette. The fabrics also vary from season to season though increasingly the lines are blurred with lighter weights appearing in the winter too.
Outside of Scandinavia, are there other places you enjoy visiting which have inspired and influenced your work?
Japan is one of the most inspiring places to go for inspiration. I love the combination of traditional and modern.
What are some new ideas and projects you have coming soon?
We are launching a small Japanese denim collection in the next months. It’s something we are very excited about as it brings together our favourite things: Japanese craftsmanship, indigo and work-wear.
What advice would you give to someone that wants to learn more about tailoring and designing garments?
Accept that it takes time and find your purpose.
Apart from the HANSEN stores in Copenhagen and Frederiksberg, what are three other places you could recommend our readers to visit close by?
For a coffee or quick bite to eat we love our neighbours in Pilestraede, April. They have a branch over in Østerbro too. For an interiors fix, we love to call in at Studio Oliver Gustav where he curates a hard-picked selection of furniture, lighting and art objects. Finally, for a truly inspiring afternoon, we head up the coast to Louisiana museum of art - a world class collection with amazing temporary exhibitions in a stunning setting.
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